The Beauty of the 85mm Lens: Mastering Shallow Depth for Dreamy Portraits

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Let’s talk about one of my all-time favorite lenses for beauty portraits: The Canon RF85mm F1.2 L USM Lens. If you know my work, you know I love big compression, dreamy bokeh, and tack-sharp eyes. And this lens? It delivers that in spades.

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Today I’m shooting with the Canon RF85mm F1.2 L USM lens. I have Violet in the studio with me, and we’re going to put this beast of a lens to work, showcasing tight portraits, full-body shots, and a masterclass in shallow depth of field.

Why the 85mm is a Go-To for Beauty Portraits

The 85mm sits perfectly between wide-angle distortion and long-lens compression. It flatters the face, softens skin, and isolates your subject like few lenses can.

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You’ve probably heard most professional portrait photographers shoot between f/4 and f/8 to keep more of the face in focus. And they’re not wrong. But I prefer 1.2. Yeah, I said it. f/1.2.

Because when I’m shooting someone with professional makeup, all I care about is the eyes. If those are sharp, the rest can fall into that creamy, soft blur. It adds elegance. It adds mood. It adds artistry.

Let’s Talk About Depth of Field

Shooting wide open at f/1.2 is a game of precision. That razor-thin depth of field means you’ve got to be hyper-aware of posing and angles.

If she’s facing me square, I’m golden. Both eyes are sharp. But if she turns even slightly, one eye can fall out of focus fast. That might not matter for an editorial fashion shot, but if you’re shooting headshots or bridal work? You better be dialed in.

To demonstrate, I took two shots:

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One at f/5.6, where everything—feathers, hair, eyes—is tack sharp.

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One at f/1.2, where the eyes pop and the rest melts into softness.

You can choose which look you prefer. For me, it’s all about the emotion the image carries.

Understanding Focal Plane Behavior

Here’s where it gets technical—but important. When you’re close to your subject, the plane of sharpest focus is so shallow that even a slight head turn can throw one eye out of focus. But when you back up, everything compresses a little and falls into a more forgiving range.

It’s not about rules. It’s about knowing what your lens is doing so you can use it intentionally. This is the kind of stuff that separates professionals from point-and-shooters.

Full-Body with the 85mm

The 85mm isn’t just for tight portraits. We pushed it for a full-body setup as well, and it held its own beautifully. With careful posing: Pulling out the elbow, shaping the dress, etc. we kept the elegance and intimacy intact even at greater distance.

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Recap: Why I Choose f/1.2 for Beauty Work

  • Compression: The 85mm flatters facial features and adds depth.
  • Shallow Depth of Field: At f/1.2, you direct the viewer’s attention exactly where you want it.
  • Skin Softness: The creamy falloff softens skin naturally. This is perfect for portraits, seniors, brides, and beauty campaigns.
  • Control: You’ve got to understand the lens, the focus plane, and the angle. But once you do? This is where magic lives.

So go ahead and try it. Shoot wide open. Embrace the falloff. Let your subject’s eyes pierce through the blur. It’s not about sharpness everywhere. It’s about impact.

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Sal Cincotta

Sal Cincotta

Sal Cincotta is a professional photographer and educator based just outside of St. Louis, Missouri in O’Fallon, Illinois. He is best known for his expertise in wedding photography, beauty and portrait photography, as well as high school senior photography. 

 

Sal is a Canon Explorer of Light, and was named the #1 Wedding Photographer in the World by One Eyeland. He is a Double Master of WPPI and a PPA Photographic Craftsman (Cr.Photog.) and Master of Photography (M.Photog). 

 

Sal is also the founder of the photography conference, ShutterFest, and is a popular speaker and instructor, offering international hands-on workshops and seminars on a variety of photography-related topics. Sal is known for his energetic and engaging teaching style and is highly regarded in the photography community for his technical knowledge and creative approach.


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